Natural cosmetics made in Ukraine: TOP-10 questions for ProCare technologist.

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We analyze trending ingredients and discuss how to assess the quality of natural cosmetics made in Ukraine.

Over the years of work at ProCare, we have received hundreds of inquiries on our website and social media about the formulas and active ingredients in the products of our cosmetic brands (Joko Blend, Barbers, Shelly, Tink, Touch Protect).

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To answer frequently asked questions, we interviewed our chemical technologist with 40 years of experience in creating cosmetics, Andrii Lazarenko. In this article you will get the answers for the following questions:

Is high-quality natural cosmetics made in Ukraine a myth or a reality? Is it possible to produce high-quality cosmetics in Ukraine?
Is it true that natural cosmetics with a high price tag are more effective than cheaper alternatives?
There is a constant "innovation competition" in the beauty industry. Everyone wants to discover the most effective ingredients. What is the most important thing in the effectiveness of a cosmetic product?
What components in cosmetics are clogging pores?
What components in cosmetics are a thing of the past?
Is it true that there is no cosmetics without preservatives?
What preservatives in cosmetics should be avoided and why?
Why are parabens in cosmetics harmful?
Should we use only sulfate-free shampoos?
What peptides in cosmetics work and why?

Are high-quality natural cosmetics made in Ukraine a myth or a reality? Is it possible to produce high-quality cosmetics in Ukraine?

As soon as we use the phrase "high-quality Ukrainian cosmetics," we fall into a so-called trap, because the concept of quality is defined differently for different people. For example, while vacationing at a resort, some people are interested in entertainment or food quality, while others pay attention to neighbors and the level of service.

When we say the word "quality", it means that a thing, service or cosmetic product must contain a set of characteristics that are important to us. If these characteristics are absent or weakly expressed, then we conclude that the quality is low or lacking altogether.

All cosmetics are functionally oriented. For example, there are products with moisturizing, nourishing, and rejuvenating properties. If a cosmetic product effectively performs a particular function for a particular person, then it can be considered of high quality, no matter what its price is or in which country it is made.

The cosmetics of our brands undergo technological inspections at every stage of production and are made of European raw materials with proven effectiveness. If the raw materials or packaging do not pass our internal inspection, we do not use them in the production of cosmetics.

Therefore, this question can be answered as follows: "In Ukraine, it is possible to produce cosmetics that effectively and functionally deal with skin, hair, etc. problems." So, high-quality natural cosmetics made in Ukraine are a reality.

Is it true that high-cost natural cosmetics are more effective than cheaper alternatives?

As a rule, companies that sell their cosmetics at a high price do so because their products contain one or two ingredients that their competitors lack. They "cherry-pick". These companies usually have their own institutes, laboratories, and access to unique ingredients. Even knowing the formula, it is almost impossible to recreate the composition of the products they produce. However, if natural cosmetics contain active agents that perform a certain function, they can be replaced with other components that have the same effect. It is possible to develop a similar composition of a product that will perform a similar function. But in this case, the appearance or characteristics of the product may differ.

Each human body is different, so you shouldn't look for the most expensive or popular cream, but the one that meets needs of your skin.

There is a constant "innovation competition" in the beauty industry. Everyone wants to identify the most effective ingredients. What is the most important aspect of effectiveness of a cosmetic product?

Any cosmetics can be considered a kind of vehicle with a set of passengers (active agents). Its task is to take the passengers to their destination so that they can accomplish their goals. This destination can be on the surface of the skin (for example, in the case of decorative cosmetics) or inside the epidermis (for example, skin care).

The base is responsible for this process in all cosmetics. Therefore, no matter how innovative the components are, if the base of the cosmetic is not up to the task, it will not be able to serve its intended purpose.

Knowing this, everyone should understand that the "innovation competition" and the search for the most miraculous components boils down to marketing and sales, without improving the effectiveness of cosmetics.

What components in cosmetics clog pores?

Everyone's skin physiology is different. There are such types of skin as: oily, dry and normal. These types are related to how open the pores of the skin are and how intensively sebum is secreted in them.

Substances that clog pores or disrupt the secretion of sebum are called comedogenic. These are mainly comedogenic oils. There are reference resources with a ranking of oils by comedogenicity from 0 to 5 points. For example, wheat germ oil is considered to be the most comedogenic, sunflower oil, shea butter, argan oil, mango are less so. First, you need to determine your skin type, and then understand which oils will be specifically comedogenic for it.

Artificial waxes or silicones are also used in cosmetics, which can also clog pores. But there is a very large number of silicones, so it has not yet been possible to fully investigate this fact. Most importantly, it should be taken into account that the concentration of silicones in cosmetic formulations should be limited: their share should not exceed 8%, which will preserve the positive effect, minimizing possible harm.

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What components in cosmetics have become a thing of the past?

These are mostly "evil" preservatives that used to be present in cosmetic formulae. For example, formaldehyde is a very effective ingredient that prevents bacteria from growing, but it is a carcinogen.
Also, companies are gradually removing low-efficiency preservatives from their compositions, to which bacteria quickly develop resistance.
Everything is getting better. Previously, cosmetics used lead whitewash, antimony for eyebrows, cinnabar containing mercury, and much more. But after medical studies, all these components were successfully removed from cosmetics.

Is it true that there is no cosmetics without preservatives?

For a number of bacteria and fungi, a cosmetic product is a hotbed in which they can easily propagate.
There are disinfectants and preservatives. The task of disinfectants is to kill, and the task of preservatives is to prevent bacteria and fungi from multiplying. Sometimes they are the same substance, but in different concentrations.

Preservatives in cosmetics are not needed only for products in which bacteria and fungi cannot multiply. For example, Joko Blend hydrophilic face wash does not contain water. It contains 60% of oils and 30% of glycerin, so neither fungal spores nor bacteria can grow on its surface. Also, our coffee scrubs do not contain preservatives, because they are made from natural coffee, not used coffee grounds. You will also not find preservatives in the composition of our coconut scrubs and bath salts. You can check out the scrubs and salts here.
But if a cosmetic product contains water, then preservatives in the composition are inevitable.

What preservatives should be avoided in cosmetics and why?

At the legislative level, there are lists in different regions that contain preservatives in cosmetics that are allowed to be used. For example, you can read the directive of the US Food and Drug Administration.

Fungi and bacteria quickly become resistant to a particular type of preservative, so these lists constantly undergo changes.

These lists are 85% similar in different regions, but there are differences. For example, in the European Union, cosmetic companies are prohibited from using parabens. In Ukraine, however, parabens are allowed to be used in rinse-off cosmetics because the time of contact with the skin is short. But time does not stand still, and the EU rules and restrictions on substances and dosages in various cosmetic formulae will soon come into force in Ukraine.

Why are parabens in cosmetics harmful?

Parabens in cosmetics are esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid, widely used as preservatives.Nowadays, the harmful effects of parabens have not been thoroughly proven. But, just in case, I emphasize that within the European Union, cosmetic companies have set restrictions on the use of this type of preservative.

Should I use only sulfate-free shampoos?

Sulfate-free shampoos are recommended for daily use because they do not wash out keratin and dye from the hair and do not affect the hydrolipid balance of skin. But once a week, you should wash your hair and scalp with a sulfate shampoo. This is necessary to avoid the accumulation of styling products or other modeling products on the hair and scalp.
Therefore, I recommend having 2 types of shampoos: sulfate and sulfate-free.

Which peptides in cosmetics work and why?

Peptides in cosmetics are small protein-like molecules that act on the receptors of specialized skin cells, activating or deactivating their function.

Peptides are used in the cosmetics of our brands. Let me tell you a few words about them.

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 is a representative of the peptide group: it stimulates the synthesis of collagen and fibronectin, a binder between the cell and connective tissue. This peptide was created to reduce skin inflammation and its consequences. As a result of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, the extracellular matrix in aging skin is maintained in a "viable" state and the rate of wrinkle formation slows down. Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 removes puffiness and bags under the eyes, and also increases skin elasticity by strengthening blood vessels and improving fluid drainage in the orbital area.
Palmytol Trypeptide-38 stimulates the synthesis of collagen, hyaluronic acid and other substances that prevent skin aging. Palmytol Trypeptide-38 evens out skin texture and naturally smoothes wrinkles by restoring the epidermal layer in places where it is most often damaged by facial expressions, such as the forehead, around the eyes and lips.
Dipeptide-3 is a biologically active tripeptide that reactivates the natural process of skin renewal. By reactivating and balancing this process, it improves skin condition and thus can prevent the appearance of defects, unevenness and signs of aging. Dipeptide-3 accelerates cell renewal for fresher, more vibrant skin, intensely moisturizes, improves texture, reduces the depth of wrinkles and provides a more even skin tone that reflects light with a new radiance.

These peptides are produced by Sederma (France, UK), a world leader in cosmetics ingredients. They are expensive, but highly selective, because they interact only with their "own" cell type. Therefore, their effectiveness is high at low concentrations.
These peptides can be seen among the ingredients in our cosmetics:

To sum up our conversation, it appears that the country of production, cost, or popularity of cosmetics does not affect its effectiveness. The main thing is that the product has a functional impact and meets the needs of your skin. When choosing cosmetics for yourself, you should not be guided by the opinions of people with different skin or hair types and other quality requirements.

We also note that it is very important to pay attention to the composition of cosmetics, choose care individually for each skin type, and to ask for guidance from specialists if you have any problems.

If you were interested in reading this material and have any additional questions for our technologist or other specialists, we will be happy to answer. Write to us on Instagram or at hello@procare.com.ua.